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Current Trends in Skin Lightening Ingredients:
Hydroquinone, in the past, was the standard
ingredient for skin lightening treatments. Until
recently, it was thought to be the safest and
most effective treatment for hyperpigmentation,
including age spots, melasma, sun damage and
other discolorations. However, new research
suggests that there may be serious side effects
associated with long term use of synthetic
hydroquinone. Just recently the FDA also
announced its plans to possibly remove
hydroquinone based products from store shelves
and limit its use to only prescription based
medications. Consequently, many
manufacturers have begun to produce natural
alternatives which mimic the skin lightening
properties of hydroquinone. Ingredients such as kojic acid and
licorice have become quite popular along with
more advanced ingredients like Alpha-Arbutin.
When combined, these ingredients can often
produce results that even surpass hydroquinone
but without the associated risks. Skin lighteners
have come a long way in the past few years. With
all the available information on the internet,
consumers can now educate themselves about the
skin bleaching products they buy. This page was
designed to help the consumer learn about the
many different skin lightening ingredients
available on the market today and ultimately
choose the best product for his/her skin.
The process of lightening the skin occurs in
several stages. Most of the current skin
lightening ingredients on the market work at
different stages of the process and typically
provide the best results when combined together
into one product. Listed below are a few of the
more popular ingredients used by manufacturers
of skin whitening products.
Alpha Arbutin:
Alpha-Arbutin is a biosynthetic active
ingredient that is pure, water-soluble and is
manufactured in a powder form. As one of the
most advanced skin lightening ingredients on the
market, it has been shown to work effectively on
all skin types. It is the epimer of arbutin, and
research has proven that it has a stronger
inhibitory action than that of (beta) arbutin.
Though it is a very expensive ingredient to
manufacture, even at very low concentrations, a-arbutin
has shown to
inhibit the activity of tyrosinase. Alpha
Arbutin's inhibitory mechanism is different from
that of arbutin and can be up to 10 times more
effective. The a-glucosidic bond
found in alpha Arbutin offers higher stability
and efficancy than the B form found in the
related Beta-Arbutin. This leads to a skin
whitening active that acts faster and more
efficiently than existing single components.
Beta-Arbutin (Bearberry
Extract):
Beta-Arbutin is often referred to as just
Arbutin. As a natural extract found in bearberry
(Uva Ursi) plants, Arbutin also provides a skin
lightening effect on the skin by inhibiting
tyrosinase activity. Though arbutin is a natural
derivative of hydroquinone, it does not possess
the same risks or side effects. Arbutin has been
shown to be a very safe ingredient and does not
break down into hydroquionone very readily.
Though it is cheaper to manufacture than Alpha-Arbutin,
the skin lightening effect is much less than
that of its counterpart. For this reason, many new skin whitening products now use
Alpha Arbutin as opposed to only beta-Arbutin.
Kojic Acid:
Kojic acid, often used as an ingredient in Asian
diets, is a more recent discovery for the
treatment of pigmentation problems and age
spots. Discovered in 1989, kojic acid is now used extensively as a natural alternative to hydroquinone. Kojic acid is derived from a
fungus, and studies have shown that it is
effective as a lightening agent, inhibiting
production of melanin (brown pigment). Kojic
acid is a by-product in the fermentation process
of malting rice for use in the manufacturing of
sake, the Japanese rice wine. There is
convincing research, both in vitro (in a test
tube) and in vivo (on a live subject), showing
kojic acid to be effective for inhibiting
melanin production.
Licorice Extract:
The licorice plant serves many purposes in skin
care. The ingredient that is responsible for the
skin whitening aspect of the plant is known as
glabridin. Glabridin inhibits pigmentation by
preventing tyrosinase activation. Studies have
shown that it can provide a considerable skin
brightening effect while remaining non-toxic to
the melanin forming cells. Glabridin is found in
very small traces and therefore it is important
to ensure that the correct part of the licorice
plant is used. Licorice's anti-inflammatory
properties (due to ihibition of superoxide anion
production and cyclooxygenase activity) also
make it a very popular ingredient in the skin
care industry.
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Niacinamide:
Niacinamide is commonly known as Vitamin B3 and
is an effective skin lightening compound that
works by inhibiting melanosome transfer from
melanocytes to keratinocytes. Often this
ingredient works best when combined with other
skin lightening treatments. Niacinamide (Vitamin
B3) is also known to be effective in reducing
acne.
Mulberry Extract:
Paper Mulberry extract, is obtained from the
root of Broussonetia kazinoki, Siebold. or B.
papyrifera, Vent. Tabl. Regn. Veget. or hybrids
of both, family Moraceae. Extracts of this root
are potent inhibitors of Tyrosinase enzyme. The
active constituents present in the extract are
Prenylated, polyhydroxylated mono-and
bis-phenylderivatives. A 0.4% concentration of
paper mulberry extract inhibits tyrosinase by
50% compared to 5.5% for hydroquinone and 10.0%
for kojic acid. At 1% paper mulberry extract is
not a significant irritant.
Glycolic Acid:
Glycolic Acid is a AHA (alpha hydroxy acid)
which promotes exfoliation and a natural
brightening of the skin tone. By encouraging
cell turnover, glycolic acid not only evens out
skin discolorations, but also helps to minimize
fine lines and wrinkles. AHA's such as Glycolic
Acid can assist other ingredients in skin
lighteners by allowing them to penetrate farther
into the skin.
Lactic
Acid:
Also an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid),
Lactic acid mimics the properties of Glycolic
acid but is typically better suited for
individuals with sensitive skin. AHA's such as
Lacic Acid can assist other ingredients in skin
lighteners by allowing them to penetrate farther
into the skin.
Lemon Juice Extract:
Lemon juice is one of nature's most potent skin
bleaching ingredients. Unfortunately it is also
very irritating to the skin and should only be
used at small concentrations in skin lighteners.
Lemon juice is also known to be extremely drying
to the skin if applied directly.
Emblica:
Emblica is a patented composition extracted from
the plant Phyllanthus emblica. The extract uses
a multilevel cascade of antioxidant compounds
resulting in a long-lasting and stable
antioxidant activity. Recent studies have shown
that this natural antioxidant also provides
significant skin lightening properties when used
in moderate concentrations.
Vitamin C:
Vitamin C is a natural antioxidant that occurs
in many different forms (some stable and others
unstable) each with distinct properties. Several
of these forms have been shown to reduce melanin
formation and provide a skin whitening effect
when applied topically. These include l-ascorbic
acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium
ascorbyl phosphate. These forms when used
individually or together can assist in slowing
down hyperactive melanocytes and thus resulting
in lighter skin.
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Visibly
reduce the appearance of:
- Age / Liver spots / Sun spots
- Freckles
- Tans / Sun damage
- Melasma / Chloasma
- Acne marks
- Old scars
- Discolorations
- Birthmarks
- Dark elbows, knees, knuckles
- Dark underarms
- Other hyperpigmentation
- General skin
brightening
Meladerm® Ingredients:
Water, Niacinamide (Vitamin
B3), PEG 4 (and) Lactic Acid
(and) Kojic Acid (and)
Butylene Glycol (and)
Mulberry Root Extract (and)
Bearberry Extract (and)
Licorice Extract,
Caprylic/Capric
Triglyceride, Sodium
Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin
C), Alpha Arbutin, Cetyl
Alcohol (and) Glyceryl
Stearate (and) PEG-75
Stearate (and) Ceteth-20
(and) Steareth-20, C12-15
Alkyl Benzoate, Sunflower
Oil,
1-Methylhydantoine-2-imide
(Tego® Cosmo C250),
Ethoxydiglycol,
Glycereth-26, Glycereth
Stearate, Steareth-2,
Steareth-21, Cetearyl
Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20,
Glycerin, Gigawhite™ (Mallow
Extract, Peppermint Leaf
Extract, Primula Veris
Extract, Alchemilla Vulgaris
Extract, Veronica
Officinalis Extract, Melissa
Officinalis Leaf Extract,
Achillea Millefolium
Extract), Cetearyl Alcohol
(and) Polysorbate 60,
Dimethicone, Stearyl
Alcohol, Lemon Juice
Extract, Glyceryl-2 Cocoate
(and) Benzoic Acid, Carbopol
980, Triethanolamine, Sorbic
Acid, Fragrance, Retinyl
Palmitate (Vitamin A),
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin
E), Urea, Emblica Extract

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The text contained in this web site is for informational purposes
and is not meant to substitute for the advice provided by your own
physician or other medical professional. You should not use the
information contained herein for diagnosing or treating a health
problem or disease, or prescribing any medication. You should read
carefully all product packaging. If you have or suspect that you
have a medical problem, promptly contact your health care provider.
Information and statements regarding cosmetic products have not been
evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration and are not intended
to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. Results may vary
among users.
Copyright © 2006 WhiterSkin.com
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